Climbing

The Cairngorms: Britain's Highest and Most Massive Mountain Range

Scotland is the most mountainous country in the United Kingdom and although this ancient land does not offer very high peaks, its mountains offers a huge variety of rock climbing. Bouldering, crags, Alpine-scale climbs, ice, you name it, they have them all. If crags are your things, you should check the Cairngorm mountain ranges on the east side of Scotland. One of the best, if not the best of all big mountain crags in the UK can be found here, offering some of the most impressive and cleanest granites of the region. We got in touch with Liam Irving, a local climber who runs Cairngorm Adventure Guides, a small local guiding company.
8. 6. 2015

There are countless classic climbs within the Cairngorms that you might want to climb, Mitre Ridge, Square face, Savage Slit and Eagles Ridge or even on the west coast. "It's mainly in the Northern Corries and the Northern Cairngorms we guide as it's easier to access and more popular with visitors", introduces Liam the company. When asked about Creag an Dubh Loch and Lochnagar in the southern Cairngorms, and The Shelterstone Crag in the northern Cairngorms, Liam says, "Creag an Dubh Loch is remote and imposing. Popular with hard and Aberdeen based climbers, it doesn't get the same traffic as Lochnagar which is the jewel in the crown of Royal Deeside mountains.

"Lochnagar has a remote feel and an impressive amphitheatre with lochan in the middle", Liam continues. "Lots of routes have been developed over the years and is a popular winter climbing destination. A good option if you want to get away from the Northern Cairngorms winter crowds. Our guides climb recreationally throughout the Cairngorms, including Shelterstone and around the Loch Avon basin. Shelterstone over looks Loch Avon and is a big, impressive lump of rock. Lots of classic summer and winter routes on it".

There are plenty of opportunities around these parts but what this region really stands out for are winter routes - the variety of climbing on offer in winter almost equals that in summer. "We offer introduction, learn to lead and guided winter climbing courses. All are delivered by guides who hold the Mountain Instructor Certificate (highest UK award for mountaineering) or are British Mountain Guides", says Liam.  "For experienced winter climbers who are looking for remote and stunning locations with quality routes, Shelterstone (Sticil Face, Route Major etc), Hells Lum (Deep Cut Chimney, Hells Lum etc) in the Northern Cairngorms are good places to start", Liam continues.


It's the winter time that makes the difference when it comes to rock climbing.

"Further south, Lochnagar is always worth a visit (Eagles Ridge, Raeburns Gully to name but a couple....) . Lots of starred routes of different grades to keep everyone happy. It doesn't take much effort to get away from the busier mountain crags in Coire an t-Sneachda or Coire an Lochan".

If you are thinking to visit Cairngorm some day, check the guys out, they know their home turf like no other, having worked in the mountains for years. In addition to mountaineering, the guys also provide canoe courses, ski touring  and adventure holidays.

Photos: © CAG

Source: http://www.cairngormadventureguides.co.uk

8. 6. 2015
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