Surfing

Free Soul Surfer - Clay Marzo

Clay Marzo is a professional surfer who suffers Aspergers syndrome, a disorder characterized by difficulties in social interaction and nonverbal communication. One of the biggest surf brands and Clay's main ex-sponsor, Quiksliver, has dropped him. Although one of the world's largest surfwear manufacturers "cut" affected more team riders, Quiksilver is silent about why they got rid of one of the most talented surfers in the world. Is the economic climate so hard and sales dependent or has it something to do with Clay's indisposition to dance to Quiksilver's tune?
6. 6. 2014

As a little guy, Clay was in the water before he could walk. He has spent more time in the water than out of the water. Simply put, it is his "happy place"; his place of refuge… Coming from a surfing family, Clay started surfing at 2 on the front of his dads board while watching his Nana surfing as well, going to his own board by 4 and that was it…

Clay gets quickly recognized and rises to fame after scoring two 10s in the NSSA Nationals and dazzling the world with his incredible surfing in the Quiksilver Young Guns movies. However, at the age of 17 it was apparent that Clay Marzo was "different". Diagnosed with Asperger’s Syndrome, a form of autism a lot of things started to all make sense. He would paddle out in the line-up but could not surf, he just shut down. He wanted to surf and get stoked but not surf and win, and then be contractually committed to stand in front of people where he was so uncomfortable. In reality, Clay simply wanted to watch the guys in the barrel and then go and get a barrel himself! Unfortunately, he could not understand or even begin to participate in the competitive paddle battles, after-surf interviews and thousands of prying eyes wanting more and more of him......


Clay has one the best 360's

"The last time I got jealous was when I watched Clay surf "  - Dane Reynolds, one of the best surfers in the world.

After a knee surgery and getting the gate from Quicksilver, Clay found himself at a crossroad in his career. Feeling the economic downturn, Clay decided to go on, surf and travel the world being filmed and photographed as a free surfer, a path that others might sooner or later follow. He does the same thing he did before but now higher, bigger and in more powerful way than ever. Is this a beginning of a revolution that will overshadow the world of competitions? Who knows. One thing is clear though, Clay's got the potential to be one of the best free surfers in the world........


"Clayback" - Clay's signature trick

Clay's Career Highlights

  • 2005 NSSA National Champion
  • 2007-X Games Gold medalist
  • 2009- 1st Place in the WQS Event in Puerto Escondido Mexico
  • 2010- Surfers Healing Clay helps out with Surfers Healing. Originated in Malibu, California, Surfers Healing is a foundation which exposes children with autism to the unique, life enriching experience of surfing. Over 2,000 children participate in Surfers Healing Camps worldwide every year.
  • 2009- Winner of Sundance film festival for Just add Water
  • 2009 -Surfer poll award best male performance


Surfers Healing - Clay is stoked to see kids happy

It is incredible how somebody with  Apergers  achieved so much. In this manner, Clay gives a hope to those with same diagnose and let them know they are not alone. In reality, Clay wants people to take their gift they have and go full force with it.  We wish him a successful future on his "free surfer" journey.

If you would like to find out more about Clay, check out his website. All images are courtesy of Clay Marzo; Copyrights applied.

Source: http://www.claymarzo.com

6. 6. 2014
Tags Surfing

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