Climbing 80 Routes of Split - Since 80´s - Rocks of Split, Croatia
If there is anything Dalmatia doesn´t lack, it´s rocks. So while in Split, why not climb some? Split and its surroundings offer many exciting opportunities for those willing to give it a go, and its mild climate makes it possible and enjoyable all year round. The area has a long tradition of first mountaineering and alpinism, which in the 80´s gave way to sport climbing. One of the first climbing competitions in the world took place on Marjan hill in 1986, right next to the dwellings in the rock where some five hundreds years ago hermits and recluses used to live, pray and contemplate.
Marjan has become a symbol of Split in the last century and a half, before that it was considered an ordinary part of the landscape. As the city grew, however, it was left out because of its rocky and difficult terrain, and became, in effect, a part of the wilderness next to the very center of the city. The thickly pine-covered peninsula of Marjan, known as “lungs of the city“ is the place where local people swim, kayak, run, climb, walk (hand in hand), cycle, meditate, or simply „charge their batteries“, while the south-oriented climbing site comes with a soothing view of the islands of Ciovo, Brac, Solta and the so-called „The gate of Split“, the channel that separates the two latter and opens up the way for those who sail in or out of Split.
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Right after the climbing competition of the 80´s more and more routes were bolted each year. Today, there are almost 80 routes ranging from 4b to 8a – suitable for absolute beginners, experienced climbers and anyone in between. The climbing site, known as „Šantine stine“ is at walking distance from the center of the old town of Split, some 40 min walk west of it, or you can reach it by public transport/car and then walk uphill for about 5 minutes to the routes. The rock is good quality limestone and the routes vary from slabs, with prevailing vertical rock faces to overhangs, some of them really technical ones, offering possibilities for different climbing styles. The best time to climb here is between autumn and spring but you can climb in summer too - early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
Climbing Routes of Split
Among others not-to-miss routes there are : Ogledalo (5c), Jakopija (6b), Sara (6a), Carlijev klub (6c), Trpimir (6b), Ivin tavan (6c+), Banana Split (7a), Carsko vino (7a), Gracija (6c), Marinero (6b+), Anja (6a+), Up land (6c), and if you're after someting bigger than go for Zadnja ruza Hrvatska (7c), or Marulianus (7c/c+), which was exactly the route to be climbed in the final part of the 1986 competition.
CroActive Holidays
Split is one big playground for all those in love with adventure sports. Adrex.com recommends using services of the CroActive Holidays agency with the most experienced guides in the area. Along with them, another thing you can try here is a relatively new climbing discipline - DWS (Deep Water Solo), or put simply, climbing above water. Just minutes away from the Split city center, on Sustipan cliffs. You can try limestone rocks and cliffs with traverses and overhangs up to 6 metres above the sea surface grading from 5a to 7c – perfect for beginners and more experienced climbers too, with no additional climbing to the spot. Take a short walk from city center to climbing site with Croactive climbing instructor. After a short introduction in climbing techniques, give it a go and end your climb with a splash in the sea.
If you are a beginner, CroActive instructors will give you a short introduction to climbing, tell you how to use gear, belay and how to make your first climbing steps. Being more experienced, why not to improve your climbing techniques or gain self-confidence on the natural rock. The instructors will find a route suitable for you and will provide climbing gear as well. CroActive organizes either 4 hour or full day sessions available at some of the most popular climbing sites in the region.
Adam Ondra dominated the bouldering scene again and won a gold medal in the second World Cup competition in Salt Lake City. He took second place in the qualification and proceeded to the finals from the same position. This time, he was surprised by the victory and admits that a little luck was…
Adam Ondra completed today's finals in Meiringen, Switzerland, and won a gold medal in the first competition of this year's World Cup. He kept first place in bouldering continuously from the qualification until the very exciting finals. He was satisfied with his excellent form and appreciated a…
