"Little Coral" - World's Premiere Big Wall Sport Climbing Destination
With limestone similar to Thailand and routes up to 20 pitches in length, El Potrero Chico (little coral), an internationally renowned rock climbing area in the Mexican state of Nuevo León is one of those places many like to return to - the locals are friendly, access to the big routes is super-easy, with only couple of minutes walk from most campgrounds and there are no ridiculous regulations or rules to obey. With hundreds of bolted rock climbs and mild temperatures it is no wonder that climbers flock to El Potrero Chico every winter - it's a great getaway for those living in cold places.
Head just south of the boarder and you'll find one of the best multipitch sport-climbing destinations in North America. El Potrero annually draws an eclectic and vibrant contingent of international climbers, especially right around New Year's Eve. Surely one of the best reasons to visit this area is to enjoy the friendly climber scene and warm Mexican culture.
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Nuevo León has an extreme climate, and there is very little rainfall throughout the year. When climbing here, you definitely need to bring some sunscreen, hat and a little water. The nearest city, Hilgado, is a mile walk or five minutes by car down the hill from El Potreto Chico and you will find everything you need there. Locals are accustomed to Potrero climbers and maybe that's why is the little town more progressive and forward thinking than many towns its size in Mexico. Many locals enjoy spending the late afternoon/evenings in the canyon watching climbers climb while drinking beers and playing traditional Mexican music on a guitar - do you feel the vibe?
The rock is limestone, but much more solid than in Thailand and the biggest fear is falling into a cactus. Noteworthy climbs include Space Boyz 5.10d and Time Wave Zero 22 pitches 12a. The first mentioned is an ultra classic and the most popular route at Potrero. It's a moderate route with a bit of exposure and a thoughtful crux, consisting of mostly 5.9 climbing with 3 pitches of 5.10. One of the longest routes in El Potrero, Time Wave Zero, on the other hand is a great option if you are looking for more of a first big wall experience.
With proper knowledge of routefinding , rappeling, belaying and building anchors, you will find El Potreto to be a fantastic introduction to multipitch climbing. One of the guides of the area, El Potrero Chico Guides, guide a lot of people on mutli-pitch routes, often introducing people to multi-pitch techniques for the first time. "El Potrero Chico is a great place for people to cut their teeth on multi-pitch routes as they are all bolted and it simplifies the process for their first time on long routes," says Mark Grundon, the owner of El Potrero Chico Guides.
Apart from climbing at the canyon, Mark also guides trips on Mexico's volcano Pico de Orizaba. If you'd like to find out more about what the guys have to offer, visit their website or get in touch with Mark at markgrundon@yahoo.com or dial (52) 811 375 2619. The canyon is located just 30 minutes north of the city of Monterrey, Mexico - a 4-hour drive south from the boarder at Laredo, Texas.
Adam Ondra dominated the bouldering scene again and won a gold medal in the second World Cup competition in Salt Lake City. He took second place in the qualification and proceeded to the finals from the same position. This time, he was surprised by the victory and admits that a little luck was…
Adam Ondra completed today's finals in Meiringen, Switzerland, and won a gold medal in the first competition of this year's World Cup. He kept first place in bouldering continuously from the qualification until the very exciting finals. He was satisfied with his excellent form and appreciated a…
